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Untitled-1 1 10/11/2014 16:44
ISSUE 47 2015 ISSN 1743-503X
FINEW
THE WORLD OF INE
www.worldo newine.com
Founder Laurence Orbach
Editorial Adviser Hugh Johnson OBE
Contributing Editor Andrew Je ord
Editor Neil Beckett
neil.beckett@worldo newine.com
Deputy Editor David Williams
david.williams@worldo newine.com
Tastings Editor Anastasia Edwards
anastasia.edwards@worldo newine.com
Food Editor Francis Percival
francis.percival@worldo newine.com
Chief Subeditor David Tombesi-Walton
www.sandseditorial.co.uk
Team Assistan
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ISSUE 47 2015 ISSN 1743-503X FINE
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CONTENTS Issue 47 2015 Photography courtesy of D
CONTENTS Issue 47 2015 Tastings Regulars 14 HU
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CONTR§IBUTORS We go to great lengths to persuade
C M Y CM MY CY CMY K Dows & Chryseia 2011_WFineW
contributors Ken Gargett was born and bred in
UNIQUE CHARACTER MULTIPLE EXPRESSIONS
contributors Francis Percival read history at
AFFORDABLE LUXURY FROM HERMITAGE Northern Rhône V
opinion / coups de coeur Classical and oriental s
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opinion / coups de coeur Hugh Johnson continued
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NOU§VEAU 18 | THE WORLD OF FINE WINE
2014 Burgundy: More drama but a happier en
nouveau / preview / review The weath
"CLOS DES URSULINES" - DOMAINE DU PAVILLON A POMM
nouveau / preview / review La Fête du Ch
All photography by Jennifer DelCastillo Nouveau
nouveau / preview / review
attention to the market, as has the introduction
nouveau / preview / review of Le Bernardin (for
F I N E W I N E , S P I R I T S & G O U R M E T F
nouveau / preview / review 2014 Villa d’Este Wi
exploration of the four seasons through wine, mus
nouveau / preview / review At the se
vintages—so I had to ask, and I was told they wer
nouveau / preview / review
Photography courtesy of Consorzio Vino Chianti Cl
nouveau / preview / review Serge Hochar (1939–2
FINEWINE THE WORLD OF TREAT Y
letters Soil issues and natural wines ro
I cannot grasp why, in the world of wine, so much
letters letters continued should always look at
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opinion / prise de mousse Place and Pecking Order
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PRE§VIEW All photography by Jon Wyand, from Une
Corton’s mellow fruitfulness, se
nouveau / preview / review
A case study in cool Britannia has global applica
nouveau / preview / review Straight over smooth
BRITISH AND ORIGINAL. WWW.NYETIMBER.COM
nouveau / preview / review Enthusiastic intelle
Photography courtesy of Wines of Argentina The b
2014 & 2015 Join us at Prowein - Düsseldorf, Mar
Butt dutiful: A pleasantly entertainin
nouveau / preview / review At table with the ph
senses, and the ways in which it might be integra
nouveau / preview / review Amour de Deutz Rosé 2
Photography by Jon Wyand D
nouveau / preview / review 2012 Domaine de l
Michael Schuster reviews another dramatic but ult
nouveau / preview / review The lost vintages of
“sensory profile” of the wine, as supplied by the
nouveau / preview / review Terlaner I Grande Cu
Vinitaly 2015: La grande degustazio
nouveau / preview / review British painter Chris
3 MFONWTHS
nouveau / preview / review Adelaide Hill
The 2008 spent 30 months in new oak, but this has
opinion / à la volée Moët back to a poignant 1914
© CHAMPAGNE CRÉATION - REIMS Vin de légende, vin
REV§IEW Bollinger Vieilles Vignes Françaises 1
Essi Avellan MW relished the opportunity to taste
nouveau / preview / review The grapes
at disgorgement, following Tante Lily’s guideline
nouveau / preview / review and cream, patisse
READ THIS IF YOU HAVE VALUABLE WINE ...
nouveau / preview / review Domaine Br
Jasper Morris MW shares his insights, as well as
nouveau / preview / review nonetheless magist
Santé Cheers! Zum Wohl Valais Wines. Taste them,
nouveau / preview / review Enlightenme
Photography courtesy of Domaine Bernard Baudry R
nouveau / preview / review Next, a s
CLOS GUILLOT AND CROIX BOISSÉE 2004 I had wonde
nouveau / preview / review Mount Mary 1976–2012
All photography by James Halliday Review 4 James
nouveau / preview / review Mount Mary in 1971,
1983 (Cabernet Sauvignon 61%, Cabernet Franc 14%,
nouveau / preview / review 1997 (Cabernet Sauv
YOU ARE CORDIALLY INVITED
Wine and art SUB ; Issue 47 - March 2015 ; World
PHOTOGRAPHY A REFLECTION ON WINE by Judy O'Kane
feature / wine and art / photography doors, and
The archaeology of the future The photographs are
opinion / sinophile Wine state of the nations
FINEWINE THE WORLD OF BACK ISSU
Ferment Elin McC SUB ; Issue 47 - March 2015 ; Wo
ROMANCING THE GRAPE THE ORIGINS OF THE N
feature / ferment / Romancing the Grape may hav
Since wine became a vast global industry, the
feature / ferment / Romancing the Grape Winemak
Tell FusW what
Burgundy Portrait / Jon Wyand / Sylvain Pitiot P
Sylvain Pitiot C
feature / Margaret Rand / Oak Barrels
Oak barrels Rand Barrels SUB ; Issue 47 - March 2
feature / Margaret Rand / Oak Barrels
25 percent new oak, the main cooper is Boutes. Bo
Oak barrels Rand Barrels SUB ; Issue 47 - March 2
notes come from furfural and 5-methylfurfurol. If
Feature 2 Lechmere Moon SUB ; Issue 47 - March 20
MOON MOUNTAIN Adam Lechmere spends a heady few da
feature / Adam Lechmere / Moon Mountain W
Part of the charm of this region is the
Feature 2 Lechmere Moon SUB ; Issue 47 - March 20
no hurry. “My role is to put things in place for
feature / Adam Lechmere / Moon Mountain EIGHT G
impart to its wines. “I have often mistaken a Mon
CONTEMPLATION AND FINE WINE TASTIN
Feature 3 Contemplation SUB ; Issue 47 - March 20
feature / Charles Taylor / Contemplation and Fine
To be clear, while it is, indeed, possible (th
feature / Charles Taylor / Contemplation and Fine
How appropriately does Schope
feature / Charles Taylor / Contemplation and Fine
in which I was elevated to that very special cont
opinion / hors d'oeuvres The problem with stories
FINEWINE THE WORLD OF WORLD'
FRIULI At the crossroads of Europe—where north
Matchmaker Friuli SUB ; Issue 47 - March 2015 ; W
feature / matchmaker / Friuli T h
“This is the beauty of Friuli. We eat seafood lik
feature / matchmaker / Friuli else—Schiopettino
“Culinary concepts that were baffling to me make
feature / on the vine 1 / New German Generation
NEW GERMAN GENERATION There are big change
feature / on the vine 1 / New German Generation
Photography courtesy of Weingut Dietrich On the
feature / on the vine 1 / New German Generation
Photography courtesy of Weingut Lothar Kettern O
feature / on the vine 1 / New German Generation
Photography courtesy of Weingut Werther Windisch
feature / on the vine 1 / New German Generation
Photography courtesy of Weingut Lisa Bunn On the
On the Vine 2 Rand SUB ; Issue 47 - March 2015 ;
QUINTA DO ROMANEIRA Margaret Rand charts the dra
feature / on the vine 2 / Quinta do Romaneira i
On the Vine 2 Rand SUB ; Issue 47 - March 2015 ;
On the Vine 2 Rand SUB ; Issue 47 - March 2015 ;
not interesting,” so out it came. Mourvèdre was n
feature / vinifera / Pinot Noir Précoce PINOT N
Photography courtesy of Sebastian Fürst.
feature / vinifera / Pinot Noir Précoce P
important to us is that it makes great wines in s
feature / vinifera / Pinot Noir Précoce frustra
pleasant variety. It was used for blending into S
À NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES DEPUIS 1825
TasTings THE WORLD OF FINE WI
Tastings Philo Contents 158 Laying Down 2013 Bur
individually to the tasters and reproduce them in
tasting / laying down / 2013 Burgundy 2013 BURG
those who decided to pick early; that way he woul
tasting / laying down / 2013 Burgundy CHABLIS
Neil Beckett NB | Stephen Brook SB | Michael Edwa
tasting / laying down / 2013 Burgundy Chablis
Neil Beckett NB | Stephen Brook SB | Michael Edwa
tasting / laying down / 2013 Burgundy Latriciè
Neil Beckett NB | Stephen Brook SB | Michael Edwa
tasting / laying down / 2013 Burgundy gorgeou
Neil Beckett NB | Stephen Brook SB | Michael Edwa
tasting / laying down / 2013 Burgundy DOMAINE
Neil Beckett NB | Stephen Brook SB | Michael Edwa
tasting / laying down / 2013 Burgundy Criots-B
Neil Beckett NB | Stephen Brook SB | Michael Edwa
tasting / laying down / 2013 Burgundy DOMAINE
Neil Beckett NB | Stephen Brook SB | Michael Edwa
tasting / laying down / 2010 Barolo 2010 BAROLO
NICOLAS BELFRAGE MW TOP WINES Poderi Luigi Einaud
tasting / laying down / 2010 Barolo Francesco
Nicolas Belfrage MW NB | Bruno Besa BB | Andrew J
tasting / laying down / 2010 Barolo nonethele
Nicolas Belfrage MW NB | Bruno Besa BB | Andrew J
tasting / laying down / 2010 Barolo AJ | Deep
Nicolas Belfrage MW NB | Bruno Besa BB | Andrew J
tasting / laying down / 2010 Barolo plenty of
Nicolas Belfrage MW NB | Bruno Besa BB | Andrew J
tasting / savor / German Whites GERMAN WHITES NO
described as Frankenwein. Late- ripening Riesling
tasting / savor / German Whites Am Stein Stett
Andreas Larsson AL | Stephan Reinhardt SR | Janci
tasting / savor / German Whites J Storrlein &
Andreas Larsson AL | Stephan Reinhardt SR | Janci
tasting / savor / German Whites acid than som
Andreas Larsson AL | Stephan Reinhardt SR | Janci
tasting / goût de terroir / Hermitage HERMITAGE
ANDREW JEFFORD'S TOP WINES Ferraton Ermitage Les
tasting / goût de terroir / Hermitage HERMITAGE
Simon Field MW SF | Andrew Je ord AJ | John Livin
tasting / goût de terroir / Hermitage Delas He
Simon Field MW SF | Andrew Jefford AJ | John Livi
tasting / goût de terroir / Hermitage Its lig
Simon Field MW SF | Andrew Jefford AJ | John Livi
tasting / goût de terroir / Hermitage JLL | D
Simon Field MW SF | Andrew Jefford AJ | John Livi
one bottle / Disznókő Tokaji Aszú 2003 6 puttonyo
Fine Wine Trading Exchange Bringing Financial Ma
liquid assets / Ella Lister LAST-C
1 Fine-wine performance overall and by regio
liquid assets / Ella Lister 2014 AUCTION ROUND-
RARE & FINE WINE AUCTIONS IT’S A WINE CELL
liquid assets / Ella Lister Auction title
Sales (US$) % sold by lot % sold by
liquid assets / Ella Lister Lots to look for A
FINE WINES & SPIRITS NEXT AUCTION 25 MARCH, 2015
liquid assets / Ella Lister merchant with a hug
The Wine Owners website has an overtly consumer f
liquid assets / Ella Lister The Liv-ex World of
1990 1995 1996 20
liquid assets / Ella Lister WFW Drinkers’ Index
ackeramend.indd 1
opinion / finish The Pernin-Rossin Case and th
Entirely invented and manufactured in-house